An unassuming-looking Cromwell, dressed in civilian clothes, stands in the market-place there today, commemorating the six years he spent as a St Ives citizen in the 1630s. The town has an attractive, solid 15th-century stone bridge by its quayside; on the bridge is a tiny chapel that opens out on to a precarious balcony over the Ouse. After a filling breakfast at Connie's Tea Rooms we accepted the waitress' offer of the key to the chapel and got a brief slice of the life of the solitary priest who lived here long ago. He must have been tough, we thought, since the place was uncomfortably cold and damp.The Norris Museum is further up the river. The building houses another small but interesting collection of exhibits, this time of general local history. There's not too much to take in so there's no risk of aching feet, and the children aren't forever dragging you into the next room.In fact, there are only two rooms. I enjoyed the fen-skating exhibits and the boys liked the spade that had broken in two while turning the first sod in the construction of the town's by-pass.

There's a sense of humour about this place, and none of the Cromwell-might-have-owned-this- maybe approach. Indeed, the museum doesn't have a single piece of Cromwell memorabilia.For more on Cromwell, head north-east to Ely. The town's striking cathedral, which was once closed down by the Lord Protector for 17 years, can be seen for miles across the flat fens, but our time was spent tracking down signs of Cromwell. The Tourist Information Office is located in the home in which Cromwell lived with his family from 1636 to 1647. This was also the place from which he rose to prominence as a tax collector.The audio-visual tour through the various rooms reveals that, although famously a Puritan, Cromwell led a far from dull life. He was fond of music, drink and hunting, and his table was well laid out with good food - eels, fish and waterfowl included.If the supposedly haunted room showing a model of Cromwell on his deathbed (a re-creation of an event that, in real life, occurred in Whitehall) was too scary for the children to enjoy, then the Civil War room was a hit Here you can try on costumes from Cromwell's time.

Heavy soldiers' helmets, tunics and dresses are available for a bit of historical cross- dressing and there is even a full-length mirror for posing.A few days exploring the Cromwell triangle will reveal sleepy villages, flat, open landscapes and a sense of history stretching back to well before Cromwell's time. The past is out there, buried under the peat in this corner of Cambridgeshire. Oliver Cromwell's past is there too, but, as a nation, I don't think we really know how to celebrate him. Happy birthday, Oliver, anyway.A 17th-century street-market takes place from 10am to 4pm tomorrow in Huntingdon (details, 01480 388249). The Cromwell Museum is at Old Grammar School Walk, Huntingdon, and entrance is free (01480 375830 for opening hours). The Norris Museum is also free and is at The Broadway, St Ives (01480 465101 for opening hours). Oliver Cromwell's House is at 29 St Mary's Street, Ely (01353 662062) and is open daily between 10am and 5.30pm.

Adults pounds 2.50, concessions pounds 2.10, family ticket pounds 5. An ecumenical service to commemorate Huntingdon's famous son will take place tomorrow in Hinchingbrooke House, which once belonged to the Cromwell family. For details of all further events, visit the Cromwell 400th anniversary website: www.cromwell.argonet.co.uk. In the cellars under St Pancras Chambers (the great former hotel outside St Pancras Station on the Euston Road, above), the Seven Sisters Group invite us to enter and explore mysterious dark rooms and passageways looking for Salome. They promise ambiguous and unexpected seduction through light, sound and movement devised by choreographer Susanne Thomas and composer Phil Durrant, with mirrors as part of the design and video projections to contribute to their mystery. There are up to four sessions a day but each can accept only 25 spectators, and demand is so heavy that extra performances have been added. Advance booking is essential, from the Place Theatre which commissioned the piece for its Spring Loaded season.

Seven Sisters Group, St Pancras Chambers, London NW1 (0171-387 0031) Tue 6.45pm & 8pm, Wed to 2 May at 3pm, 4.15pm, 6.45pm & 8pm.. Ah'm a 62-year-old grandmother," said Sue Weant, in her Scarlett O'Hara accent, as she flapped across the deck in wetsuit, flippers and air tank. "Ah cain't believe ah'm doin' this." Standing at a gap in the boat railings, she stepped over the side and vanished into the Caribbean. Being a natural wimp, I couldn't believe it either as I stood in the sun, knees buckling under the weight of the tank, ready to follow Sue in a free-fall to the water's surface. "Fix your eyes on the horizon," said Garvin, our Bahamian divemaster. "OK, now step forward." My brain tried to tell my leg to move but the leg wasn't keen "Go on," said Garvin.